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Silvretta Traverse Day 4 1/2 – Tuoi Hut to Wiesbadener

by Lou Dawson April 13, 2009
written by Lou Dawson April 13, 2009
Backcountry Skiing

Silvretta Traverse

The last chapter of our tale ended with Ted and I slogging up from the Tuoi hut (Tuoihütte) into possible avalanche danger, as a deck full of European ski alpinists looked on with disdain at our rash act of defiance. Actually, I exaggerate. The situation was well under control as most paths had already dumped, and what remained could be maneuvered around. Of more concern was heat stroke as we climbed through a windless furnace that reminded me of working construction in Texas in July. Fortunately this was not Texas, and the torture lasted only an hour or so with numerous rewards at the end.

Backcountry Skiing

Looking southerly, headed up north from the Tuoi Hut, red dots mark our entrance and exit.

Tuoi is a seriously cool place. Small, nicely organized, not crowded. While we decked I was thinking yeah, we could spend the night here…But I still had the legs for more vert, and I knew Ted wouldn’t have any problem with a small slog to top off the day.

Backcountry Skiing

Heading to Vermuntpass (yes it's spelled that way on the map).

Luckily, as shown in photo above most of the paths had run. But a small bit of hangfire here and there kept us thinking about micro route finding, and staying separated.


Backcountry Skiing

Another view south. Check out the location of Tuoi Hut! I love the way these things are situated in the alpine.

Backcountry Skiing

Vermuntpass at last! The shack is an inactive border station or something like that.

Tuoi to Vermuntpass is 547 vertical meters. Combined with day’s other legs that gave us a total of 1,845 vertical meters climbing. Tired legs is an understatement, as we’d been hauling our full packs all day as well. Blessing was when about half way up to Vermuntpass we entered a nice dark mountain shadow. Along with that, I’d remembered the trick of packing snow on the back of my neck to cool off. Try it sometime — you’ll be surprised how good that trickling cold water feels as it works down your overheated back.

Backcountry Skiing

At Vermuntpass looking north, and yes that's the Wiesbadener Hut down there, just a few hundred perfect corn snow turns away. Oh the pain.

Backcountry Skiing

I didn't waste any time getting those turns in.

Backcountry Skiing

There are so many distractions around here, it's a wonder you even get in a day of skiing!

Backcountry Skiing

Hut arrival. Looking south at Vermuntpass, approx. route marked with red dots.

Upon arrival, what do you know but photographer Dan Patitucci and his crew were at it again. I really liked getting to know Dan and his wife Janine (who also works in the photo game), they’ve got an amazing depth of knowledge about European mountain sports, not to mention the ability to create very nice photography.

Backcountry Skiing

Typical action on the patio. Andres teaches Susie the traditions and techniques of weiss beer sipping.

Backcountry Skiing

Ted in what we thought was a normal private room. Quite spacious.

We scored a private room, but the story didn’t end there. Note the television set peeking from the corner of the photo. Why, you might ask, does a room in a mountain hut have a television? Perhaps so American tourists can view Italian television for cultural literacy to counteract their unworldly American views? Or perhaps something simpler than that? Find out the answer in my next trip report.


Backcountry Skiing

Name that mountain food boys and girls.

Dinner at the Wiesbadener was a hearty pasta/meat dish with a custard desert. As those calories were grossly insufficient, we ordered up the classic athletic supplements shown above. This item is no doubt familiar fair to you Austrian mountain food experts. Anyone care to name that big plugger?

Lou Dawson

WildSnow.com publisher emeritus and founder Lou (Louis Dawson) has a 50+ years career in climbing, backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering. He was the first person in history to ski down all 54 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks, has authored numerous books about about backcountry skiing, and has skied from the summit of Denali in Alaska, North America’s highest mountain.

www.loudawson.com
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