We reached Leirvassbu Mountain Lodge here in the Jotunheimen Mountains of Norway after a fairly tame ski from Spiterstulen (see previous posts). Stian had been promising a cultural event. We were not disappointed.
This Norwegian kid was already very nationalistic in his dining habits. That’s a waffle. Everywhere you go they make waffles. You slather with goodies and munch down. One thing I liked about Leirvassbu was the combination of it being a family destination as well as a base for more hardcore ski touring. In terms of the demographic in comparison to the Alps, most noticeable difference was fewer folks in their older years.
Marker/Völkl got me here to Norway to simply try some gear and blog about a nice ski tour, or so I thought. That idea turned out to be excellent, but let me tell you I am now double wowed. Leirvassbu Mountain Lodge exploded my skiers consciousness like like a Viking battle ax cleaving my cerebellum. After nearly a decade of ski touring trips in the Alps I thought I’d seen “popularity.” But the sheer devotion of Norwegians to human powered skiing and outdoor living takes the prize.
Main difference between the two lodges is Spiterstulen Lodge Hut Norway can be driven to and has more of a classic “hotel” spirit with a swimming pool and less surrounding snow this time of year. Leirvassbu on the other hand is high enough in elevation (1,400 meters) to remain surrounded during springtime by a thick, dirt-free snowpack. Skiing is thus “porch to porch” and in my view the ideal way to locate a ski touring accommodation.
Other than during summer after snow melt, all transport to Leirvassbu is over-snow, either human powered or utilizing snowcats or snowmobiles on the snow-covered access road. There are no nearby ski lifts of any sort, and probably never will be. Check it out.
Leirvassbu, down valley is forward and to the left. This is the patio and loading area in front of the lodge. 85 rooms are available, and during our visit they were accommodating about 220 people in the lodge with nearly that many camping outside. The owner told me their business had increased about 30% from last year, due mostly to the increased popularity of alpine ski touring (meaning skiing using pintech and frame backcountry ski bindings).
Dining room in upper part of this section, bar in lower part. Original lodge was a stone cabin built in 1875, probably sleeping about a dozen if cozy. It’s still standing just below the patio area. Today’s lodge sleeps about 200 people when full, as it is when we arrive.
Patio area in front is formed by several meters of snow piled by a snowcat plow. To the left that’s co-owner Ole Grindvold enjoying his place. Always smiling, his leadership clearly has much to do with the happy spirit of Leirvassbu.
This wing of the lodge is where most beds are. Peak behind is “Church Mountain” and obviously popular for various goals.
What’s utterly ridiculous and somehow compelling is the number of people who dwell in the ‘tent city’ outside the lodge. At least 150 people were snow camping, most paying a small fee to use the lodge facilities. The lodge was maxed, proof being a boot drying room that smelled so bad you could not enter without holding your breath. You know how smells dredge up memories? Stian, who’s been skiing here all his life, said that’s the smell that defines Leirvassbu for him and always brings up many memories. What I found surprising was the amount of clothing hung to dry in the boot room. I can’t imagine pulling a base-layer over your head after it had absorbed the toxic miasma emanating from 200 pairs of AT boots. You’d require medical attention for sure. The air is fairly dry here, so we dried our gear by leaving it in the hallway outside our rooms. Worked fine.
Reception area, that’s co-owner Ole manning the counter.
Menu, to give you an idea of prices. Divide by 7 for approximate USD. If you stay you can get a room with breakfast-dinner (half board), see their website for prices. Example, a coffee is about $3.50, similar to getting a java in Aspen.
Breakfast is served from 7:30 to 9:30.
You do see the occasional nordic type touring rig, but tech gear has taken over in a big way.
Another view outside lodge, check the dates.
What amazed me more than anything was the shear variety of gear, and the Norwegian willingness to use it. This guy had been carting his family around for hours in moderate terrain above the lodge. I was highly impressed.
Same with this gal, making sure her family was having fun.
Typical crew checking out more routes.
Bar and lounge area.
Everyone can get their gear hauled on the over-snow road by these snowcats purchased from the military.
The lodge uses snowmobiles as well to haul these baggage trailers.
Patio becomes a loading dock.
Another view of the lodge with mountains everywhere asking to be skied.
The group on Leirvassbu snow patio after their big day of human powered ski photography. Peak in background is Stehoe. They did a zillion laps on the lower 2/3 nicely featured area.
Moonrise from the dining room. This was the beginning of yet another ski tour that happened sooner than later and is worth a blog post of its own. Read on.
WildSnow.com publisher emeritus and founder Lou (Louis Dawson) has a 50+ years career in climbing, backcountry skiing and ski mountaineering. He was the first person in history to ski down all 54 Colorado 14,000-foot peaks, has authored numerous books about about backcountry skiing, and has skied from the summit of Denali in Alaska, North America’s highest mountain.
